FAQ's

Yes, if you follow the directions we provide and have some practical experience, you can successfully build this fence. It may take you a little while to complete, but like anything else, with more experience you become more proficient and faster. Try to learn as much as you can before starting the project. Also, you might consider using the services of a professional installer to drive or set the posts, leaving you to finish the rail.

We use a large plastic supplier who blends in a UV stabilization package in the premium grade polyethylene plastic we buy, and we stand behind their products. Because of this we offer up to a 30 year limited warranty, knowing that polyethylene will usually outperform other plastics.

This is a personal choice, but, consider the amount of animal pressure. The more pressure there will be, the closer you want the posts. Heavy usage, lots etc. 6 FT (1.8288 meters); corrals 8 FT (2.4384 meters); small paddocks 10 FT (3.048 meters); larger paddocks 12 FT (3.6576 meters) post centers. Fences on 16 FT (4.8768 meters) centers in exposed areas may have problems because crosswind will cause the rail to vibrate. So, 14 FT (4.2672 meters) post centers are maximum, if used in sheltered areas. i.e. against a tree row or in a hollow.

Qualifiied installers have the equipment, tools and experience to give you a permanent, professional looking structure. For every dollar you spend, it will be returned in increased equity by adding value to your property. If you have never built a fence like this, consider having an experienced fencing contractor quote and install the first section of fence, so that you might be able to watch him. Then you can make an evaluation as to whether you finish the installation or have him do it. Need help finding an experienced Horserail^® installer? Contact us.

Horses have been known to bite or crib, but not excessively. They may bite on it, but only to the wire then they will stop. If it is a continuing occurrence - try adding electrifiable Hottop^® or Hotcote^® to train your horses away from the fence.

It is not recommended, because there is no satisfactory method of attaching the rail to the post while allowing it to slide.

Most installations are from end to end on straight runs, irregardless of the length, you can pull around corners if it is a short run of 100 feet or so. It is reasonably easy to join one roll of rail to another with the Horserail^® Joining Buckle.

For shorter spans (330 FT, 100.584 meters) you only require one spooler (tensioner) but on longer spans of 660 FT (182.88 meters) you should use two as it is the end post assemblies that move and slacken the fence, so with the spoolers there, it is easy to re-tighten. It's less advisable to place spoolers in the middle of the fence span when using coated wire or rail products.

We can answer most questions that you might have, and if we can't answer it ourselves, we know who can. Please e-mail info@Horserail.com.

About the same as a board fence in cash outlay, however when the annual maintenance cost is taken into account, the rail fence is less expensive. (It's the safety factor that is difficult to place a value on when it comes to the safety of your animals. Veterinary services can be expensive.)

We asked the same question to contractors and users who have handled other products and they prefer ours. Horserail^® is the safest horse fence available because it is lighter and more flexible. Horserail^® is the number one choice of contractors because it looks great, lasts long, and most importantly, it is easy to handle during installation. Please check it out for yourself.