Coated Wire
Fence Line - Design and Planning | Fence Line – End and Corner Post Assemblies | How to Mark Posts |
How to Cut Rail | Hottop® - End Post Attachment | Hottop® - Line Post Insulated Bracket Attachment | Joining Buckle | Tensioning Spooler
Fence Line - Design and Planning
Define and Prepare Fence Line
- Mark out proposed fence line using stakes and thick/visible string. Use the attached grid, question list and example to help layout your fence.
- Flatten fence line as much as possible (take away extreme rises and fill-in extreme dips)
- Clear vegetation and debris from fence line and mow
- Layout working gates (walk through and test to make sure placement and size will meet your needs)
Develop Materials List
- Determine number and size of large diameter posts needed (see Chart A ) (corners, end posts, gates, etc.)
- Determine number of fence run posts needed (see Chart B )
- Select design option (see Chart B ), OR create your own design, determine length of fence, number of feet of chosen material and then number of rolls
- Determine proper number of accessories needed (buckles, brackets, spoolers, lag screws and washers, attaching sleeve, donut tensioners, staples and screws) (see Material List Example attached)
Equipment/Tools Needed
- • Post Driver/Auger System*
- • Bending Tool (Rail only)
- • Payout Box (Rail only)
- • Either Extended Handle Ratchets or Two 1/2 ̋ (12mm) Long Handle Ratchets
- • Hammer
- • Impact Drill/Socket Set
- • Tape Measure
- • Marking Pen
- • String Line
- • Safety Glasses & Glove
The use of a Post Driver/Auger System is recommended for most installations. It is easier, quicker and provides a better installation than hand digging. If hand digging, be sure to measure hole width and depth, using a tape measure, and use concrete around posts!
FIRST STEP: General Fence Description
- What are the overall dimensions of your fence? - width x length _______x________
- How many sides or sections make up your fence?
- Number and type of corners in your fence? 45º corner_______ corner curved_______ 90º corner_______
- Number of gates
- Number of end posts
- Type of bracing: Safe-T-Brace_______ horizontal bracing_______ no brace end post_______
- Indicate Special Needs Areas: wet crossing_______ perpendicular fence runs_______ other_______
SECOND STEP: Complete this set of questions for each “side/section” of fence.
SECTION ONE
- Length of section?
- What is the terrain like? Flat_______ rolling hills_______ steep hills_______
- What are your soil conditions? solid clay rocky wet loose sand
- Rail or Coated Wire
- Electric capable [Y] [N]
- Design of rail and/or coated wire runs including number of each and its orientation
- Color of Rail or Coated Wire
- What quantity, length and OD posts are needed for:
- What post spacing is needed for terraine and ground type (giving us the number of line posts required)
- Larger Posts for end, corners and gates
- What type, color, size and quantity of:
- buckles
- brackets
- spoolers/donut tensioners
- Hotube insulators
- What size and quantity of lag screws
- What color and quantity of Hex Head, Wide Shoulder, Insulator Screws
- What quantity of staples
Possible Materials Needed
- CCA Pressure Treated Posts (different OD and lengths
- Bracing (pipe or posts)
- Pipe Brackets
- Safe-T-Brace Cables
- Brace Wire
- Concrete
- Staples
- Lag Screws
- Horserail® Rolls
- Hottop Rolls
- Horsecote Rolls
- Hotcote Rolls
- Insulator Screws
- Electric Leadout Wire
- Ground Rods
- Lightning Arrestors
- Proposed Energizer (min)
- Electric Fence Stickers
- Electric Shut-offs
- Buckles
- CW Buckles
- Brackets
- Spoolers
- Donut Tensioners
- Optional
- Bending Tool
- Tensioning Tools
Click here to download a PDF on Fence Line Design and Planning
[back to the top]
Fence Line – End and Corner Post Assemblies
Posts are the foundation to a well built fence. A solid foundation means a safer, stronger, longer lasting, better looking fence.
Remember this when thinking about posts: Bigger – Deeper – Longer – Stronger
End or Corner Posts: General Rules
Setting End and Corner Posts is the key to a quality installation of high-tensile polymer fence.
- It is recommended to only use CCA pressure treated posts.
- Concrete footings need to extend below the frost line.
- Concrete footings for the upright End Posts and Corner Posts must be bell-shaped.
- Diagonal brace footing is always faced off.
Tips & Techniques
1. Bigger, Deeper, Longer, Stronger: Increase the diameter of all end, gate, and 90 degree corner posts from the standard 6 ̋ (15cm) to an 8 ̋ (20cm) minimum. This will lessen the number of failures and loss of fence tension. The reason is that over time and especially in moist soil, below the ground line, the smaller diameter end and corner posts bow and knife through the soil being pulled in the same direction by both the brace cable and the fence itself. Movement of up to 4 ̋ (10cm) has been observed. Other countries of the world use larger diameter posts because of this hidden problem. Australia for instance uses mainly 12 ̋ (30cm) and larger.
2. Proper Lean: There should be one inch of lean against the pull of the wires from the top post, 4.5 ́ (137cm) to the ground line prior to tension- ing the fence. Use a measuring level, torpedo level or plumb-bob to assist. If too much lean then keep lighter tension on the brace cable. Remember once there is tension on the end post it is impossible to retighten ANY brace cable or brace wires, without letting off tension on the fence first.
3. First Things First: Always position brace cable starting at the base of all end, gate and corner posts, then to the top of the brace post when using a top horizontal member of either a 4.5 ́ (137cm) x 10 ́ (305cm) pressure treated post or a 2 ̋ (5cm) x 10 ́ (305cm) (SS20) galvanized pipe.
1. End Post Assembly
- Place the loop end of the brace cable around the end post from the wire or rail side of the fence.
- Position the loop near the inside, center line of the post. Orient the loop for ease of lacing. Staple cable to post 6 ̋ (15cm) up from the ground line and within 4 ̋ (10cm) from the loop.
- Lace the other end of the brace cable through the loop as though you are lassoing the end post, pull the brace cable all the way through loop until taut - then manually bend the cable at the loop end to hold in place.
2. Added Safety Pipe (Optional)
- • Slide on an 8.5 ́ to 9 ́ (260cm to 275cm) long piece of 3/4 ̋ (2cm) (min. OD) electric conduit or rigid PVC, painted to match your fence.
3. Brace Post Assembly
- Slide on the Mini Spooler.
- Hammer a staple on both sides of the brace post under where the rail bracket or wire will be positioned.
- Slide the cable end through one staple and back around the brace post through the other staple.
- Position the Mini Spooler about 8 ̋ (20cm) from the brace post. This will leave about a 6 ̋ to 8 ̋ (15cm to 20cm) loop of cable brace out from the brace post. (see drawing)
- Slide the cable end through and beyond the remain- ing center hub hole about 1 ̋ (2.5cm).
- Hammer the staples snug but NOT overly tight.
4. Tensioning Mini Spooler
- Place both ratchets into the Mini Spooler hubs.
- Slide the Horserail® 2 ̋ (5cm) Extended Handle onto the ratchets.*
- Pull the Handle (don’t push) to tension the cable. With your hand - carefully hold the Mini Spooler to stop it from unwinding. Ratchet back the Handle, release the Mini Spooler and pull again, then hold the Mini Spooler, repeat this process until taut.
- Lean into the Handle with your body while inserting both locking pins - locate pins in opposite holes - closest to the cable brace.
* Note: The above tensioning techniques are for a one man installation using a Horserail® 2 ̋ (5cm) Extended Ratchet Handle. In a two man installation, one man could use two 24 ̋ (61cm) Long Handled Ratchets while the other man sets the locking pins.
NO BRACE END POST
A no brace end, gate or corner post for tensioned fence materials for horses, such as Horserail®
This is a single post end but it needs the following... Essential conditions and materials for this to work.
1 Soil conditions that allows you to auger up to 7.5 ́ (228cm) deep by 16 ̋ (40cm) diameter hole, less if it is super stable, rocky conditions.
2 Having an auger with rock teeth and an extension that has down pressure and can drill that deep.
3 Or finding a contractor that has the equipment to drill such a hole at a fair price.
4 Having access to 10 ̋ – 12 ̋ x 12 ́ [(25cm – 30cm) x 365cm] treated poles (even used). Making sure to coat the exposed cut surface with roofing sealer material. Suitability of used poles can be determined by density and sound when hit with a hammer as to how solid they are.
5 Making up or having access to a 10 ́ (304cm) long handled tamping bar (rammer) and a utility scoop shovel for cleaning bottom of hole.
6 Willing to mix up the ingredients to make the equivalent of 5 bags of dry concrete mix (321)*, or purchase same, for each hole, 1 bag in the bottom, then soil tamped tightly in small increments to within 36 ̋ (90cm) of the ground line, more dry concrete mix tamped tight to within 6 ̋ (15cm), finish out with sod. Allow soil moisture to set up, and don’t final tension fence until it has set.
With the above you have the capacity to build yourself a one post end that can handle a tensioned HorserailTM fence without bracing, giving you “a clean board look.”
When this is not practical to build then the standard single brace assembly with a top horizontal of 10 ́ (304cm) and a covered Safe-T-BraceTM cable kit will be more than strong enough – especially if an HD post driver is used.
When that is not an option, one can auger a 3.5 ́ minimum x 16 ̋ (106cm min. x 40cm) hole and use concrete to set the posts.
* Note: Dry concrete mix is considered porous, allows water to escape, treated posts last longer. ! In softer soils - use a buried breast-block or a flat face for the concrete. ! Lean post 1 ̋ (2.5cm) against pull of fence.
Click here to download a PDF on Fence Line – End and Corner Post Assemblies
[back to the top]
How to Mark Posts
1. Set Posts - for the best, professional installation you should always use a post driver!
2. Create a “flowing” visual line that follows the contour of the land. (see Diagram A ) Also make sure posts are in line visually - front to back. (see Diagram B )
4. Mark and cut any posts that are too high.
5. Mark the post for proper buckle and bracket placement. (see Diagram D )
- First mark a line across the end post in the direction of the fence run
- Then make a second line at a 90 ̊ angle to the first line
- And last make a 45 ̊ mark splitting the two “pie shaped” quarters
6. Find the tangent to your endpost which is at the end of the 45 ̊ line you just drew. Use a marking stick to vertically align and mark each rail run. Note: You can do this for all of the line posts, corner post and end posts and then install your rail and hardware. (see Diagram D and E )
Click here to download a PDF on How to Mark Posts
[back to the top]
How to Cut Rail
Procedures are the same for Horserail® and Hottop®
The goal is to obtain a clean, square cut!
1. Using a square or the side of a Buckle, score a line across the full width of the rail.
2. Using bolt cutters, snip one outer wire at the end of the score line.
3. Then snip the other outer wire at the other end of the score line.
4. Tear the rail from both ends toward the center wire. Note 1: If the rail has only 2 wires - you will be able to tear the entire width of the rail. Note 2: If the rail has 4 wires - you will need to cut all 4 wires with bolt cutters.
5. Bend the rail in half, then straighten the rail, then bend the rail the other direction.
6. Continue until rail snaps in two.
OPTION: Score and cut with handheld grinder.
TIP: To find the proper length when attaching a rail to an end post:
- First place a Buckle on top of the rail.
- Pull the rail (hand tight).
- Hold the two items up to the post marking where the desired length would be.
- Mark the rail and follow the steps on how to cut it.
Click here to download a PDF on How to Cut Rail
[back to the top]
Hottop®- End Post Attachment
Hottop®- Line Post Insulated Bracket Attachment
Click here to download a PDF on Hottop® - Line Post Insulated Bracket Attachment
[back to the top]
Joining Buckle
Used for Joining Both Hottop® and Horserail®
1. Insert end of rail into the Bending Tool all the way so rail touches the back rim of the tool.
2. Bend the rail - the Bending Tool will create the optimum shape and length for inserting rail into the Joining Buckle.
3. With ribs of the Joining Buckle facing you, insert both ends of the pre-bent rail through the middle slot. (see Diagram B ) Note: Make sure you have the Joining Buckle facing the proper direction! (see Diagram E )
4. Pull enough rail through the slot to allow you to further manipulate the rail ends.
5. Hand bend the ends to be close to parallel to the rail.
6. Insert each end into the appropriate outside slots. Pull/push both rails down
through the slots as much as possible. (see Diagrams C and D )
7. With your thumbs resting on the outer edges of the Buckle - press down on the Buckle, while at the same time, putting pressure on the rail. Trying to make the assembly as “flat” as possible.
8. The joined assembly will flatten out during final tensioning. This view is from the rail side of the fence!
Tensioning Spooler
Installing the Convenient Two Piece Spooler
1. Place the Two-Piece Spooler on the rail by first holding the Spooler up to the rail and then sliding the removable section into the appropriate slot. Keep 12 ̋ (30cm) to 18 ̋ (45cm) from line post.
2. Square the spooler (with a speed square) to the rail before tensioning.
– Use one Spooler for every 660 ́ (200m) of Rail and/or when 90 ̊ of elevation and directional change occur.
– Corners, small dips and rises create friction so use one Spooler for every accumulated 90 ̊.
– Make sure rail is hand tight before final tensioning with spooler.
– Must have sufficient slack in rail for one full rotation before becoming taut.
3. To make installation and tightening easier and safer, use the Extended Handle Ratchets. Place a ratchet on each Spooler hub.
4. Slide on extended handles and remove the safety pin from the rubber strap.
5. Tension the rail by first ratcheting the Extended Handles (use the safety pin to hold the tension while ratcheting back) then remove safety pin, repeat ratcheting until taught.
6. Two locking pins MUST be placed opposite each other in holes closest to the tensioned rail.
7. For best presentation - install Spoolers to line up vertically.
2 Person Installation Option
Use two long handled 1/2 ̋ (12mm) drive ratchets (one on each end of the hub).
Always Follow These Steps:
A. Pull both long handles towards you.
B. Hold one (A) steady while ratcheting back the other (B)
C. Now hold (B) steady and ratchet back (A) and finally
D. Pull both towards you again. Repeat as needed.
– Don’t over-tension the rail or tension a spooler on a taught fence. – When tensioning, use two people: one to ratchet, one to assist with the alignment and to lock pins in place.
Install Spooler and tension fence
For aesthetics - place Spooler 12 ̋ (30cm) (min.) from line post
A. Place Spooler on rail and slide “removable” hub piece into place
B. Allowforonefullrotationbeforebecomingtaut
C. Place locking pin sinto pre-drilled holes, opposite each other, to stop the Spooler from unwinding.
Click here to download a PDF on the Tensioning Spooler
[back to the top]
Select A Language
Click above to choose a language
